Wolf’s Ridge Brews Up Chocolate Delights with Ethereal Confections Cacao
By David Nilsen
Wolf’s Ridge Brewing in Columbus, Ohio, takes its name from an archaic name for the region of Ohio now occupied by the state’s capital city. In Ohio’s early days of statehood, the capital moved around the state, and the need was recognized for a permanent center of government. A site was selected in the middle of the state at a location described as “on the high banks of the Scioto River at the location formerly known as Wolf’s Ridge” The name hints at Ohio’s former identity as a feral frontier, and has influenced some of the brewery’s beer names as well. Wolf’s Ridge’s year-round Imperial Stout is known as Dire Wolf, and variations of the beer play on the wolf theme.
Wolf’s Ridge brews the full standard range of American craft beer styles from easy-drinking lagers to IPAs, but have built their reputation on limited-release beers likes barrel-aged Stouts and Barleywines, mixed-fermentation sours, and high-concept adjunct beers with multiple flavor ingredients added. Many of these beers are brewed with cacao.
Years ago, Wolf ‘s Ridge head brewer Chris Davison sourced cacao from a nearby market, but he grew dissatisfied with the quality of these anonymous nibs. He reached out to Ethereal Confections in Woodstock, Illinois, and began using several of their single origin cacaos. Chocolate Cinnamon Toast Brunch, for example, was brewed with Ugandan cacao, while Chocolate Dire Gorgon used nibs from Ecuador and Ghana.
“It will change based on what they have available, but I’m building it into the beer,” explains Davison. “If I want it to be a really chocolate-forward character, then I’m looking for ones with descriptions like fudge or true chocolate. Some will be spicy or have notes of cinnamon.”
Davison usually allows a beer to rest on cacao nibs for about three days, but will allow it to steep for longer if possible. This differs from his philosophy for brewing with coffee, such as the brewery’s best-selling Daybreak Coffee Cream Ale.
“With cacao or vanilla, the longer you let it sit, the better. You’re going to get more and more flavor our of it,” he explains. “The alcohol and pH of beer is a really great solvent and we’ll keep extracting those oils and flavors. However, thing like coffee will start getting astringent or too strong in flavor over time. Cinnamon’s another one.”
Wolf’s Ridge is constantly releasing new and interesting beers, but a few of these chocolate beers have stood out to me over the last couple years.
Office Party was an Imperial Stout brewed with orange peel, vanilla, lactose, and Ghana and Dominican Republic cacao. I really wasn’t sure what to expect here, as orange can often come across as artificial or soda pop-like in beer, but this was fantastic. The flavors reminded me of an orange creamsicle drizzled in dark chocolate, or a dark chocolate bonbon with orange creme ganache.
Chocolate Dire Gorgon was a Spumani-inspired Imperial Stout brewed in collaboration with Streetside Brewing. It was made with pistachios, vanilla, strawberry, and Ugandan cacao. Spiritous strawberry, angel food cake with berries, mildly acidic coffee-like cacao notes, and a sweet-but-not-too-sweet foundation made it an unexpected delight.
If you’re in the Ohio market, keep an eye out for Wolf’s Ridge’s next thoughtful chocolate beer.